Atelier Crenn

Review Highlights

Atelier Crenn is a three-Michelin-star restaurant in San Francisco's Cow Hollow neighbourhood, opened in 2011 by Chef Dominique Crenn — the first and only female three-star chef in the United States. The menu unfolds as a poem, honoring her French roots through California's finest plants, fish, and seafood, with produce sourced from her own farm in Sonoma County. Alexander visited as the first stop of his five-part California series, accompanied by his godson for his 18th birthday, spending around $1,600 for two.

• ·Cocoa butter shell with liquid apple juice and crème de cassis jelly — the opening bite; eaten in one go with lips closed before it bursts; an homage to Chef Crenn's childhood in France
• ·Three preparations of beets — ceviche, cracker, and jelly; "the ceviche was a real acid bomb — I loved it"; the shiso leaf cracker was described as beautifully intense and crunchy; "the best course so far — the earthy flavour of beetroot well balanced by acidity"
• ·Seascape course — puffed buckwheat as sand, broccoli puree as sea, leeks, clams, truffles, and bonito flakes as the wave, finished with broccoli dashi and lemongrass oil; a theatrical presentation of the Bay Area coastline
• ·Grilled abalone on sauerkraut with EXO sauce — served in the shell alongside red cabbage puree and mustard aioli; "great concept and presentation, with good flavors too"
• ·Passion pina colada cupcake — a one-bite dessert described as the most popular on the menu; "fantastic — the pastries are easily winning the day"

Alexander's verdict: a highly creative kitchen whose flavors did not always match the ambition of its presentation. The beet course and the desserts were standouts; several savory dishes — including the crab ice cream and the white asparagus — fell flat or were too acidic for his taste. The service was precise but mechanical: "like they were operating from a checklist — the service lacked soul." The pastry chef was the saving grace. "Dominique Crenn wanted to tell a poem with her menu. She succeeded, but her poem did not become my favorite."

About

Atelier Crenn is a three-Michelin-star restaurant in San Francisco's Cow Hollow neighbourhood, led by Chef Dominique Crenn — the first female chef in the US to hold three Michelin stars. The tasting menu is structured as a poem, drawing on her French heritage and California's seasonal bounty, with produce grown on her Sonoma farm. The restaurant also holds a Michelin Green Star for sustainability.