Restaurant Jordnær

Review Highlights

Restaurant Jordnær is a three-Michelin-star restaurant tucked inside the unassuming Gentofte Hotel in the affluent Copenhagen suburb of Gentofte, Denmark. Chef Eric Vildgaard and his wife Tina — who runs the front of house — built the restaurant from the ground up, selling their most prized possessions to finance it. Chef Eric’s path to fine dining was anything but typical: after a troubled youth in Copenhagen’s crime underworld, a cooking stint on a sailing trip for troubled kids set him on a new path, leading to training at Noma under René Redzepi and eventually opening Jordnær with Tina in 2017. Alexander visits with a party of five for the 500-euro tasting menu blending Scandinavian cuisine with Japanese influences.

• ·Aged Comté Tartlet — shell of aged Comté topped with romanesco broccoli in lemon leaf oil, fresh goat cheese, and toasted almonds. “Interesting textures, nice crunch and a good start.”
• ·King Crab Tartlet — mussel cream, sake emulsion, Japanese tabasco, decorated with wild and farmed herbs and flowers. “Beautiful presentation.”
• ·Rossette Waffle — Japanese beer-batter shell filled with shrimp salad, crème fraîche and chives, made with a repurposed Swedish pastry tool. “These bites were both beautiful and delicious.”
• ·Scallop, Rose & White Currants — hand-dived Norwegian scallops with gooseberry gel, finger lime, and rose oil sauce, topped with a skewer of Japanese clove petals. “I like the floral flavors, but some of the flowers were bitter and overpowered the taste of the scallop.”
• ·Langoustine Essence — tartar of langoustine tail and claw meat with bouillon jelly, tomato, cognac and vanilla, finished with Sicilian Marinda tomato water and olive oil. “I like the different layers and textures. It’s a clever dish.”
• ·Danish Black Lobster — poached tail with timut pepper, layered with sheep cream panna cotta, white asparagus, and grapefruit gel, finished with a warm citrus reduction. Described as “like a bittersweet symphony.”
• ·King Crab Chawanmushi — classic Japanese savory egg custard with crab legs, raw shrimps, Ossetra caviar, mandarin oil, fresh wasabi, and a perfect sancho leaf. “This dish is beautiful. It hurts me to destroy this presentation.”
• ·Danish Dover Sole — grilled on binchotan with oak and cherry wood chips, served with grilled green peas and a dashi reduction. A showcase of the kitchen’s no-compromise philosophy: if the best ingredient isn’t local, they source it from Japan or beyond.

Alexander’s total came to 938 euros. He found the Nordic-Japanese fusion fascinating and praised the uncompromising approach to quality — “they use the best, even if it means getting it from another country.” The presentation was “superb” and “ready-made for Instagram,” made all the more remarkable by the heavily tattooed Chef Eric’s delicate touch. However, Alexander felt several courses “lacked texture and intensity,” and while service improved since his last visit with more “human touch,” there were stretches when no waiter was visible in the dining room. Overall, he holds deep respect for the Vildgaards’ journey from selling their valuables to earning three Michelin stars: “They had incredible faith when they opened their restaurant, and it paid off.”

About

Restaurant Jordnær is a three-Michelin-star fine dining destination in the Gentofte Hotel, north of Copenhagen, run by husband-and-wife team Chef Eric Kragh Vildgaard and Tina Kragh Vildgaard. The restaurant serves a Scandinavian-Japanese tasting menu built on pristine seafood and vegetables, operating by the mantra “only the best for our guests” — sourcing top ingredients globally when local options fall short. Housed in a restored 15th-century building, the intimate dining room blends Nordic minimalism with historic charm, creating one of Denmark’s most celebrated dining experiences.