Le Gabriel

Review Highlights

Le Gabriel is the three-Michelin-starred restaurant inside La Réserve Hotel and Spa on Avenue Gabriel in Paris's 8th arrondissement, housed in a former mansion built for Napoleon III's half-brother. Chef Jérôme Banctel, who earned two Michelin stars within a year of opening in 2015 and the third in 2024, draws on his travels through Turkey and Japan to blend global techniques with classical French foundations — most notably cooking vegetables in lime water, a method he brought back from Turkey that tightens sweetness without cooking the exterior. Alexander The Guest visits with his team to explore the 'Around the World' tasting menu and discovers a kitchen relentlessly focused on precision, from signature sand carrots to a surprise appearance by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti on the wine pairing.

• ·Amuse-bouche selection — Creamy pork pie with Kaviari caviar, a dusted puff potato with surprising depth, deep-fried snail with white garlic and Comté in wasabi sauce, and the standout: oyster with lime and fresh hazelnuts. 'I love the citrus with saltiness of the sea with hazelnut in there to give it texture. Call my bouche thoroughly amused.'
• ·Sand carrot with fermented ginger, served with warm brioche — One of Chef Banctel's signature vegetable dishes. The carrot is marinated in lime water, then the interior is removed, mashed with ginger, and returned to the shell. 'A very creative idea. I really love bold beginnings that can even be divisive — it's not playing it safe.'
• ·Artichoke hearts roasted and glazed with cherry blossom vinegar — Also prepared with the lime water technique, finished with a sauce that has 'a gorgeous umami that is almost truffle-like.' Paired with a Sancerre from a tiny single-cuvée producer.
• ·Salmon marinated in miso for days, with celery root in apple and curry oil — The top is charred for a strong caramelized flavor, while the miso marinade gives the fish a beautiful tenderness that 'falls into layers with the touch of a fork.' The sauce draws on the chef's experiences in India.
• ·Roasted langoustine with fennel, poached in seawater, topped with white grapefruit — The tail is dusted with langoustine coral powder for color and depth. 'The langoustine dominates this dish — the chef shows off the fantastic quality of ingredients he can source.'
• ·Crispy pig's head terrine with seaweed, cream, and seashells — Chef Banctel's most iconic dish, representing his home in Brittany. An unexpected extra course that appeared after Alexander had admired it on the other menu. 'This one is perfection.' Paired with a 2018 DRC Echezeaux grand cru.
• ·Squid tagliatelle with duck jus and Kaviari caviar — What looks like pasta is actually squid poached in duck fat, with concentrated duck jus and squid ink. 'You get fabulous squid, rich duck flavor, and then the caviar just puts the crown on it.'
• ·Pigeon from Brittany in two services — A ravioli in light, spicy pigeon broth, followed by a fillet roasted on the skin with jus and fermented turnip. 'The fillet is super tender, juicy, and perfectly cooked. A great way to end this amazing meal.'

Alexander calls Le Gabriel a restaurant that 'doesn't care about big stories' — it's too busy getting as close to perfection as possible. The total for two came to just over €2,500, including the World Class wine pairing that featured both DRC Echezeaux and Château d'Yquem. He leaves feeling 'very fortunate' to have encountered such enthusiastic, humble service professionals and a chef who elegantly mixes global inspiration with classic French cuisine.

About

Le Gabriel is the three-Michelin-starred gastronomic restaurant at La Réserve Hotel and Spa on Avenue Gabriel in Paris's 8th arrondissement. Led by Chef Jérôme Banctel — who earned two stars within a year of opening in 2015 and the third in 2024 — the kitchen blends classical French discipline with techniques gathered from extensive travels through Turkey and Japan, most notably cooking vegetables in limestone water to concentrate flavor and texture. The intimate 40-seat dining room exudes a quiet, old-money confidence, with no background music — just the sound of polished, assured service.