Fallow

Review Highlights

Alexander returns to Fallow in St. James — a place he's visited several times before and calls one of London's most exciting restaurants. This is the second half of a two-part collaboration with co-owners Jack Croft and Will Murray (the first video lives on Fallow's channel). He's greeted with a Krug 169 Magnum at the table and a special menu, but the real draw is the room itself: loud, chaotic, buzzing, packed to the brim with 110 guests on a Sunday evening — a night when most restaurants are half-empty. Fallow does 500 covers a day in a space where two previous restaurants failed, and Alexander is here to figure out why. The menu reads like a sophisticated pub — mostly British, honestly cooked, with items ranging from £5.50 to £44 and a £44 set lunch of small plates.

• ·Kombu seasoned corn with lime — one of Fallow's signature hits. "This little bite is packed with flavor. Umami, sweetness, saltiness, and the lime calms it with a touch of acidity."
• ·Mushroom parfait — second-class mushrooms (the imperfect ones) cooked down, reduced, and glazed with soy and mirin, served with smoky grilled bread infused with herbs. "Super concentrated mushroom flavor. An umami bomb." Paired with a 2021 Puligny-Montrachet.
• ·Bluefin tuna with Jerusalem artichoke puree, hazelnut, shiso leaves, and kohlrabi, finished with a black truffle ponzu vinaigrette. "The artichokes give this creamy, umami flavor. The sauce is fresh, a little bit spicy, just enough to grab your attention. I love how the tuna doesn't take all the credit — it is a whole experience, and the fish is just a part of it. Wonderful food in every bite."
• ·Cod's head — grilled whole, eye included, drizzled with sriracha butter, served with kombu fries for mopping up the sauce. Their most famous dish and "probably the best representation of the kitchen." The nose-to-tail philosophy is a cornerstone of Fallow: "You don't see many cows on Trafalgar Square, so it's a clever thing to use everything you got."
• ·Kohlrabi confit — layered celeriac and potato, confited then fried, with miso and lemon butter emulsion, black garlic puree, and celeriac puree. "Next level crunchiness, but the inside is creamy and light. It is interesting how most of the dishes are both well thought-out and casual."
• ·Lamb with aubergine puree, pickled onion, and lamb sauce — a proper English main. "Strong lamb flavors and a little bit chewy. But overall, I love this course." Paired with a 2020 Syrah from Chapoutier.
• ·Desserts — caramelised whey tart with milk ice cream ("a simple dessert, but a real dessert — the filling is creamy, sweet, the pastry is spot-on"); and a banana split reimagined: pickled vanilla-syrup banana skin, deep-fried, over banana mousse with mascarpone-vanilla parfait and banana Nesquik caramel ("very cheeky").

Alexander's verdict: Fallow's success isn't just social media hype — though a team of ten content creators posting twice a week and reaching millions is a formidable engine. The real secret is that the food delivers. "Once you come here, sit down and take the first bite, you'll realize it." Quality and accessibility merge: refined technique applied to honest British ingredients, served in a room that's alive with energy, at prices that don't require a special occasion. During the pandemic, when most restaurants floundered, Fallow pivoted to takeaway comfort food — burgers, roasts, soups — and those dishes eventually merged back into the menu, creating something unique. "You have to be visible to gain an audience. But hard work and creativity will always be the basis of a successful restaurant." The proof: a Sunday evening service that's every bit as electric as a Friday night.

About

Fallow is a modern British restaurant in St. James's Market from co-owners Jack Croft and Will Murray — both alumni of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal — alongside veteran restaurateur James Robson, who joined in 2019. Founded as a series of pop-ups before landing a permanent Haymarket location in 2021, it champions nose-to-tail cooking and sustainability, holding a Michelin Bib Gourmand and Certified B Corporation status. The kitchen elevates underrated British ingredients with global technique, while a dedicated ten-person content team has built one of the most-followed restaurant social media presences in the UK — making Fallow as famous for its POV cooking videos as for its cod's head.